Christopher Kilkus on Photographer Peter Lindbergh

 Peter Lindbergh

Born in 1944, Peter Lindbergh is described as one of the most talked about fashion photographers on the international scene. Always interested in art, Lindbergh started his career as a window dresser for two German department stores. After taking night classes at the Academy of Fine Arts, Lindbergh began numerous treks across Europe, one of which was a hitchhike to Arles in the footsteps of Vincent van Gogh, much-admired by the young Lindbergh.

Lindbergh’s first-ever exhibition was as a Free Painting student at the College of Art in Krefeld. It was shortly after this period when Lindbergh transitioned from painting to photography. In the early 1970s, Lindbergh worked as an assistant to photographer Hans Lux.

In 1978, Lindbergh moved to Paris and began working regularly as an international fashion photographer. His photography was published in Italian, English, French, German and American issues of Vogue, New Yorker, Vanity Fair, Allure, Harper’s Bazaar, and Rolling Stone.

Lindbergh worked with many major fashion labels, including Giorgio Armani, Jil Sander, Prada, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Comme des Garçons. In addition, Lindbergh composed portraits of celebrities including: Catherine Deneuve, Mick Jagger, Charlotte Rampling, Nastassja Kinski, Tina Turner, John Travolta, Madonna, Sharon Stone, and John Malkovich.

Lindbergh’s art and photography has been recognized in the form of memberships and awards. He has been a member of the German Art Directors Club since 1995. A year after his induction to that club, Lindbergh was honored with the highest European design prize: the Raymond Loewy Foundation’s Award. He later won the Foundation’s Lead award for best photography.

Lindbergh’s work can be found in exhibitions around the world, the notably the 2002 exhibition at the Pushkin Museum in Moscow. Besides photography, Lindbergh directed commercials, documentaries and music videos.

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Christopher Kilkus on Photographer Francesco Scavullo

Francesco Scavullo

Born in 1921 in New York City, Francesco Scavullo (1921–2004) became one of the most renowned fashion-journalism photographers in the world. He is best known for his work for Cosmopolitanmagazine, where the models were photographed with an air of sexiness and glamour. These shoots included Scavullo’s trademark lighting and styling techniques, known in the industry as a scene becoming “Scavullo-ized.” Scavullo loved glamour and aimed to “make everyone look like a movie star.” Besides fashion photography, Scavullo was well-known for his enamel on canvas photo silkscreens, portraits and still life works.

Scavullo’s first big break came when he styled a shoot of Lauren Bacall for Harper’s Bazaar. That famous 1943 photograph is credited with launching Bacall’s career, along with Scavullo’s.

Scavullo led the way in lighting techniques, utilizing the white umbrella and muslin sheets method often found on movie sets. Besides his technical expertise, Scavullo was beloved by the models he worked with, and his photos are responsible for launching the careers of many young models.

Scavullo’s photographs have been seen in Rolling Stone, Life, Time, Town & Country, Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, Mademoiselle, Glamour, Cosmopolitan, Harpers & Queen, L’Officiel, Woman and Max, among many others. Additionally, he shot movie posters (including A Star is Born with Barbra Streisand) and album covers (such as Edgar Winters’ They Only Come Out At Night and Diana Ross’ Diana).

Scavullo’s photographs live on in his six books: Scavullo on Beauty, Scavullo Men, Scavullo Women, Scavullo, Scavullo: Photographs, 50 years, and Scavullo Nudes. His work is a part of the permanent collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Amon Carter Museum in Texas.

Scavullo was commissioned to photograph many famous people, including Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Sissy Spacek, Cher, Brooke Shields, Madonna, Roseanne Arnold, Kim Basinger, Barbra Streisand, Michelle Pfieffer, Sylvester Stallone and Arnold Schwarzenegger.

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Christopher Kilkus on Photographer Mario Testino

Mario Testino

A photographer known internationally for his cultural and commercial contributions, Mario Testino is labeled as a much-sought after photographer and creative partner in the fashion industry. His style of grand, bright, meticulously styled photographs earns him a place as one of the top fashion photographers of his generation.

His work has been featured in Vogue and Vanity Fair, and he has worked on numerous advertising campaigns for fashion houses Burberry, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace.

Testino’s work has been found in multiple exhibitions worldwide. The National Portrait Gallery in London still boasts Testino’s Portraits by Mario Testino, which opened in 2002, as its most well-attended exhibit. That exhibit traveled the world, seeing Milan, Amsterdam, Edinburgh, Tokyo, Mexico City and Lima.

Testino is one of only a few select living artists to have an exhibit on display at the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza in Madrid. For the first time, Testino’s work will be available for view in the U.S., with an exhibit set to open at the end of 2012 at the Museum of Fine Art in Boston.

Testino’s work can be widely found in books; he has published ten volumes of his work. One of the most notable books is MaRio de Janeiro Testino, which focuses on the city and people that have influenced his photographic vision. His latest book, Kate Moss by Mario Testino, is made up of the photographs he has taken of Moss during their 20 year friendship.

Testino is a widely celebrated photographer, earning numerous awards for his contributions to the world of photography. A native of Peru, Testino was awarded Peru’s highest honor, the Grand Cross Order of Merit. Another highlight was receiving the honor of the Gold Medal from the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute.

Testino also is known for his work as a portrait photographer, working with actors, celebrities and the Royal Family.

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Christopher Kilkus on Photographer Steven Meisel

Born in 1954 in New York, Steven Meisel was driven by his passion for photography at an early age. As a teenager in New York City, Meisel photographed models he saw on the streets. Subsequently, he studied at the Parsons School of Design in New York, earning a degree in fashion illustration. He immediately put that degree to good use, landing an illustrating and sketching job at fashion-house Halston, and eventually ending up at Women’s Wear Daily.

Meisel’s early work at Women’s Wear Daily included styling the models and taking test shots of them, all while improving his craft. His work was noticed by editors at Seventeen magazine, which in turn garnered the attention of Self magazine. Meisel’s career took off at Self, producing covers that helped establish his reputation. Meisel has an unusual, long-standing relationship with Italian Vogue, having been responsible for the cover and lead editorial story for the publication for over a decade. He continues to be the primary photographer for both the Italian and American Vogue publications.

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Christopher Kilkus on Photographer Richard Avedon

Born in 1923 in New York City, Richard Avedon (1923–2004) quickly grew into his role as an artist. At the age of 12, Avedon joined the YMHA Camera Club, and became a poet in high school. Like many young men his age, Avedon joined the war effort in 1942. He served as Photographer’s Mate Second Class in the Merchant Marine, where he further developed his photography skills. After leaving the Merchant Marine, Avedon became a photographer, working with art director Alexey Brodovitch at the Design Laboratory of the New School for Social Research.

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Christopher Kilkus on Photographer Helmut Newton

Born in 1920 in Berlin, Helmut Newton (1920–2004) began his life as a photographer at an early age. From the ages of 16 to 18, Newton was an apprentice with Yva, a portrait, nude and fashion photographer in Berlin-Charlottenburg. Shortly thereafter, Newton fled Berlin, finding photography work in Singapore at the “Singapore Straits Times,” and ultimately finding his way to Australia. After spending five years with the Australian army, Newton becomes an Australian citizen.

Newton travelled the world in the late 1950s into the 1960s, working for British Vogue, Australian Vogue, French Vogue, and French Elle. Newton even conducted the occasional photo shoot with the Queen of England.

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Christopher Kilkus on Photographer Herb Ritts

Born in California in 1952, Herb Ritts (1952–2002) grew up in the glamorous Beverly Hills and got his start helping his friend, Richard Gere, get into show-business. As the famous anecdote goes, Ritts wasn’t sure where he was headed in his career and happened to snap a shot of his friend, Gere, while changing a tire. That picture landed in Vogue, Esquire, and Elle, earning Ritts his first checks as a photographer.

Shortly after his unconventional start in photography, Ritts became a sought-after artist. His work appeared on the covers of Vanity Fair, Vogue, GQ, Harper’s Bazaar, Rolling Stone and Interview. He worked with fashion designers Gianni Versace and Ralph Lauren on fashion spreads for magazines. Ritts also was a part of several successful advertising campaigns, including Revlon, Donna Karan, the Gap, and Calvin Klein.

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Christopher Kilkus on Photographer Annie Leibovitz

Born in Connecticut in 1949, Annie Leibovitz realized her love of photography as a painting student at the San Francisco Art Institute. In 1970, Leibovitz scored a job at the newly founded magazine, Rolling Stone, as a staff photographer, quickly rising to chief photographer. She shot 142 covers for Rolling Stone, including a nude John Lennon with his wife Yoko Ono, taken shortly before he was shot to death. Leibovitz’s most memorable work for Rolling Stone included photographing the resignation of Richard Nixon and the 1975 Rolling Stones tour.

In the early 1980s, Leibovitz began working for Vanity Fair. Here, she was able to expand her photography subjects beyond rock stars, working with presidents, actors, directors, writers, musicians, athletes, business figures, and even the occasional fashion shoot. Her controversial photographs of a pregnant and nude Demi Moore, and Whoopi Goldberg in a bathtub full of milk, continue to spark discussions to this day.

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Christopher Kilkus on Photographer Patrick Demarchelier

Born in 1943 near Paris, Patrick Demarchelier began his love of photography at the age of 17. Soon thereafter, Demarchelier moved to Paris to pursue photography, starting out in a photography lab printing newspaper photographs. Eventually, his path led him to Hans Feurer, a photographer with Vogue. Despite not having any formal training in his art, Demarchelier credits his success to learning from his mistakes and practicing his craft every day.

In 1975, Demarchelier relocated to New York City, without speaking a word of English. A few years later, Alexander Liberman, director at Conde Nast, discovered Demarchelier’s work. Ever since then, Demarchelier has been a regular photographer for Conde Nast publications, including Mademoiselle, Glamour, Vogue (British and French), and GQ.

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